![]() ![]() The holes are all 1 3/16″ – I see people trying to match the existing ones – which just means when you redrill for the buttons, you are compromising the plug you just made. I’ve seen some hacked up repairs to this style of panel – but came up with something that will be pretty nice. The steel replacement panel that came back is nearly perfect! I have to tweak a couple of items and I can reproduce the steel plate at will for reasonable cost.īut what to do with the Swiss cheese I already had. After spending time drawing it in Sketchup and re-looking at the original and trying to keep the original panel since it had a factory date stamp on the inside… I’m going to repair it.įrom my panel designs – I was able to create a DXF file that I send to an online laser cutter. My original plan was to just rebuild the control panel. Depending on how things go – I may make a few of these. I went ahead and generated a full set of plans for the Joust CP.ĭownloadable here: Downloads I’ve also ordered a steel replacement plate for the panel. I’ve completed the hole pattern for the steel plate. I’d have to plug and re-drill the 6 button holes to make them usable for the original style buttons.Īt minimum – I’ll get an exact model of this CP designed in Sketchup. If I decide to repair this one – the 2 way joystick mounts are still in place. The good news is that all of the info I need to make a replacement panel I can get from this one. Four of these holes are original Joust holes – the rest are an abomination! Joust’s panel has a 16G steel plate that is rabbeted into the top of the plywood. I’m not 100% sure I’m going to reuse this panel – but I needed to get it uncovered so that I could measure it to manufacture a replacement. So I used a standard heat gun and putty knife to get it off. When I could get some of it – it started taking the grain of the wood with it… it is extremely tough and would not peel off. The overlay must have been put on many years ago. At least the joysticks and leaf switches seem to be original as well as a chopped up original wiring harness.īack to the control panel…. Here is the backside of the clip-on Joust control panel that was used with the Sinistar cabinet. It does have the original control panel.īut it was converted to a Silkworm panel (or something). Lakeside Arcade: Modifications after a year of use.A list of all the little decisions I have focused on….Lakeside Arcade: Making the Control Panel.Cabinet Construction Begins: Lakeside Arcade.Joust Cocktail – Cabinet Restore and Cleanup.Joust Upright – Reassembling the cabinet. ![]() Joust Upright – Cabinet tear down and restore.Asteroids Deluxe Cocktail – Restoration.Star Trek S.O.S – Mechanical and Electrical Work.Star Trek S.O.S – Cabinet repairs & Cosmetics.Also, buttons 5,6,7 and 8 are kinda worthless for players 3 and 4. This is mainly because I hand drilled the holes (no drill press). The buttons are VERY close together, in some instances, I had to trim some of the plastic retaining nut to get neighboring buttons to fit. The zip is 110MB, and the files are layered PSD's: It's got the first CP overlay, Marquee and Side Panel artwork. I designed a full frame for the back part of the cab because it's going to be supporting a 50" plasma on a wall mount, and in my haste, I actually used 2" x 2" for the 2x2 framework, when 2x2's are actually 1.75" x 1.75", so there's some revision that needs to be done thereĪnyway, here's the artwork. I haven't done any woodworking in several years, and designed the cab in cad program, and already some of my measurements were off. ![]() Well, I plan on making different parts of the plans available as I finish up different parts of the cab.
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